Savvy Sightseer - tips and insights for seasoned travelers!
He used the underground tunnel to get between Château Amboise and Clos Lucé.
Catherine de Medici's "intimate" 1.33 acre garden
View from Château Amboise
The Loire Valley
When royals needed a break from their daily routine and backbiting politics, they flocked to their country homes - elaborate châteaux along the scenic Loire Valley and its river cutting east to west across central France. They outdid each other with enchanting castles, carefully designed grounds and lavish interiors. In 2000, UNESCO made a nearly 180-mile stretch of the Valley, with over 40 châteaux, part of its World Heritage Sites.
Château Chenonceau:
the Quintessential Loire Valley Castle
The nearly 200-foot long gallery built over the original bridge played host to many lavish events, including the marriage of Francis II of France to Mary, Queen of Scots.
The Salamander, with its mythic powers, was the sign of King Francis I of France; the Stoat was his wife's, Queen Claude.
Named in memory of Catherine de Medici's two daughters and three daughters-in-law
Gleaming pots and molds stand ready
"To the Aristolochia" tapestry is one of several rare 16th century Flanders Tapestries decorating the castle.
"To the Aristolochia" tapestry is one of several rare 16th century Flanders Tapestries decorating the castle.
One of many very beautiful artworks by renown artists that line the château's walls.
One of a matched set of 16th century Italian cabinets; likely stored papers of national importance - it was from the Green Study that Catherine de Medici ran the country.
The Château de Chenoneau, dubbed the Château des Dames in salute to the influence of its formidable woman owners down the centuries, is one of the finest of the Valley’s castles. It exemplifies the sumptuous tastes of the rich intertwined with historical events – and lots of melodrama. In the mid-1500s, King Henry II gave the 15th century fairy-tale castle to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. She put a decidedly female stamp on the former home of a tax collector and his wife. De Poitiers extended a bridge from the main building across the River Cher, giving the château a unique look. She also laid out gardens, considered at the time to be “most spectacular and modern.” Her reign as mistress of both king and château ended with the king’s death and her subsequent eviction by the cuckolded queen – the powerful Catherine de Medici.
Keeping out winter chills and adding a decorative touch, world-class Belgian tapestries line the castle’s enormous walls. Some tell the tale of daily life at Chenonceau; others detail historic occasions or religious themes. From Italian-styled oak ceilings to Renaissance furnishings and artwork to the checkerboard marble floor of the 200-foot long Gallery, a magnificent ballroom de Medici built atop the château’s bridge, Chenonceau is a masterpiece of class and taste, the best that royal money can buy. The palace even became the seat of power for de Medici when she ruled France as Regent on behalf of her young son. In the Green Study and Library, perched over the River Cher, cross-breezes cool the turret-like room that looks out on the gardens. It’s hard to believe any work got done at her desk in this tranquil setting, much less the business of running a nation. When her son, Francis II, married Mary, Queen of Scots in 1560, de Medici hosted the event at the château.
The castle provides an up-close look at life in a bygone era more realistically than many other estates open to the public. Visitors can wander freely in the rooms and explore the kitchens with their gleaming pots hanging ready for use. All rooms are fully furnished; fresh flowers grown on the property grace tables and mantles throughout the house, giving the château a welcoming feeling. The Menier family, prominent chocolatiers, acquired it in 1913. Carrying on the tradition of strong woman who left their imprint on Chenonceau, Simone Menier took advantage of a strange set of circumstances during WWII – the south side of the castle sat in unoccupied France, while across the line of demarcation, the River Cher, the Château and land on the north side was held by Nazis. Simone helped the Resistance smuggle escapees through the Gallery's south entrance. Chenonceau is second only to Versailles as the most visited castle in France.
Click on the images at left for an expanded slide-show view and more information.
Châteaux Amboise and Clos Lucé:
Leonardo da Vinci's home
from 1516-1519
Among the estates looming above the 634-mile Loire River, France’s longest waterway, is Château Royal d’Amboise. The grand residence of French royalty since the 15th century is a mere shadow of its former grandeur – destruction during the French Revolution and again in WWII cut the estate down by 80-percent. The château today features some royal chambers, sprawling gardens and the burial place of an unlikely Italian expat – Leonardo da Vinci. 2016 celebrates the 500th anniversary of the great artist’s move from Italy to France as a guest of King Francis I. He lived at Château Clos Lucé, connected to the king’s château by an underground passageway.
Clos Lucé provides a unique glimpse into the Renaissance man’s life and thoughts. His living quarters are beautifully furnished, from his lush four-poster bed to the roomy kitchen. A newly unveiled part of the home is a real treat. Walking through a door, a visitor is greeted by the man himself! An amazingly life-like hologram of da Vinci chatting with a contemporary just a few feet away is a little jarring at first, but a fantastic addition to the experience of not just visiting his home, but the great man as well.
In the basement of his house visitors, can step into the mindset of the man, identified most often with his art – the Mona Lisa and the Last Supper – to see a multi-talented, multi-faceted man without parallel. Scale models of some of his many inventions, including an automobile prototype, military tank, moveable bridge and triple-tier machine gun inspire awe that one man could be so ahead of his time. On the park-like grounds, full-size versions invite adults and children alike to explore his inventions inside and out, to gawk at forerunners of today’s everyday sights such as a double-decker bridge, as well as his artworks. It’s easy to imagine the master painting in the little studio in his yard.
King Francis I invited Leonardo da Vinci to join him in 1516 at Amboise and his castle overlooking the Loire River.
Leonardo da Vinci final resting place is inside the 15th century chapel.
The Renaissance Man's bust sits atop his original burial place. The 11th century structure was demolished in 1806 and his remains moved to the chapel.
A simple marker in the St. Hubert Chapel floor for a great man
For three years, da Vinci worked from his home, Clos Lucé, provided by King Francis I.
A bed fit for a man of great stature.
In the basement of Clos Lucé are 40 examples of da Vinci's genius. His models and prototypes show he was truly a man ahead of his time.
Da Vinci's vision of air travel using an air screw - a precursor to today's helicopters.
A novel concept at the time
Da Vinci said his armored military tank could take the place of elephants in battle. Inside there's a shelter for the shooters; above is an observation turret.
Click on the images above for an expanded slide-show view and additional information.
Continue your trip through France with a visit to Paris, Normandy and Brittany, France's Churches or back to the France home page.
