Savvy Sightseer - tips and insights for seasoned travelers!
Landlocked country is in Central Europe.
Castle towers over the city, Charles Bridge and Vltava River.
Built in 1410, the intricate timepiece is still a marvel of mediaeval engineering, made up of three parts: at the top, there are parading mechanical figures. Below are two large discs serving very different purposes: in oversimplified terms the top dial or astrolabe is a clock; the bottom colorful disc is a calendar.
Prague's Center of Culture and Opera House.
Tower in the city's eastern gate once stored gunpowder.
Prague: A Photographer's Dream
Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, goes by several names: City of a Hundred Spires, the Golden City, the Mother of Cities, the Heart of Europe and one-time co-base of the Holy Roman Empire. Its history is deep and varied, to say the least; its sights are captivating. Prague is steeped in tradition, while also thoroughly modern and quirky! According to the Global Peace Index (GPI) published in 2021, the Republic is the ninth most peaceful country in the world. And US News & World Report ranks Prague #8 on its list of Best Places to Visit in Europe for 2023, likening it to a “scene of an urban fairy tale.”
At one time the central European region was known as the Kingdom of Bohemia, ruled for centuries by various tribes, including Celts, Greeks and Slavs. Czechs eventually emerged as the dominant Slavic tribe, and Prague became one of the most important trading cities in Central Europe. In the 10th century, Holy Roman Emperor Otto I was at odds with the Kingdom of Bohemia’s ruler. Otto prevailed and the Kingdom essentially became a fiefdom under the jurisdiction of the Empire. By the mid-1300s, though, Bohemia had grown in power and importance in the region, with Charles IV becoming the first head of the Kingdom of Bohemia to also reign as Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. He then transformed Prague into an imperial capital and began projects to make Bohemia a leading European cultural and educational center. As part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, Prague continued to thrive and became one of the most advanced cities of the time. After the dissolution of the Empire in 1918, though, the Kingdom of Bohemia also ceased to exist. However, from those ashes emerged a newly formed and free Czechoslovak Republic, with Czechs and Slovaks comprising the majority of the united provinces in the region. Decades later, Czechoslovakia separated peacefully into two new countries, the Czech Republic and Slovakia. Vistors to the Czech capital have two main sights at the top of their list of what to see: the Charles Bridge and the Castle Complex.
Charles Bridge
Charles Bridge
The nearly 33’ wide span means there’s plenty of room for outside attractions - artists wield their brushes and crafters hawk souvenirs and handmade trinkets.
Unique music played to entertain visitors wandering across the bridge.
This represents Jesus Christ as the savior of humanity with twin saints, Cosmas and Damian, who are patron saints of healers and doctors.
The nearly 33’ wide span means there’s plenty of room for outside attractions - artists wield their brushes and crafters hawk souvenirs and handmade trinkets.
Click to open a slideshow of the bridge's many sights.
The most prominent crossing of Prague's 18 spans is the magnificent Charles Bridge, not only Prague’s oldest, but also one of the oldest in Europe. Its cornerstone was laid in 1357 to replace a narrow span that had been wiped out by catastrophic floods. It was later named for the ruling monarch of that time, Charles IV, whose reign in the 14th century is considered by many to be Prague’s Golden Age. The bridge took almost 50 years to finish construction, but it turned out work wasn’t completely done. In the late 1600s, the first of 30 statues was installed to decorate the 1700’ long span. It was a move to revitalize Catholicism after the religious conflict, known as the 30 Years War, which had ended with a battle on the Charles Bridge. The thought was that a parade of saints would serve as a warning to villagers passing by to keep on the path of virtue and to frequent the church to repent all their sins. The detailed sculptures made the Charles Bridge essentially an open-air gallery, but it wasn’t until 1965, when vehicle traffic was banned, that pedestrians could linger and enjoy the artworks, musicians and painters. There’s myths and legends attached to many of the saintly statues, the most famous of which is the statue of John of Nepomuk, perched at about the Bridge’s midpoint. It was the first one erected (1683); its backstory goes that those who rub it will have good fortune and be destined to return to Prague one day!
Castle Complex and Cathedral
The 110-acre spread, consisting of palaces, churches, offices, courtyards and gardens, boasts many of the town’s fabled spires and dominates the landscape.
Above the Golden Portal, the rose window is considered to be an epitome of stained glass craftsmanship in Prague.
View from the castle complex takes in the river and some of its many bridges.
The 110-acre spread, consisting of palaces, churches, offices, courtyards and gardens, boasts many of the town’s fabled spires and dominates the landscape.
Click to open a slideshow of the castle complex.
The castle complex at Prague is like no other in the world. Its spires are visible from just about everywhere in the town. The nearly 110-acre spread, consisting of palaces, churches, offices, courtyards and gardens, boasts many of the town’s fabled spires, dominates the landscape. The oldest sections date back to the 9th century. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, Prague’s is the largest coherent castle-complex in the world. It, along with the city’s historic old center, is home to several UNESCO World Heritage sites, most notably, the Saint Vitus Cathedral. Actually the church’s full title is the Cathedral of Saints Vitus, Wenceslaus and Adalbert, three Christian martyrs. Conveniently the name has been shortened to St. Vitus, a relic of whose is embedded within.
It eventually became a truly fitting place for a coronation. St. Wenceslas I had originally founded a simple rotunda on the ruins of a pagan worship site early in the 10th century. The church was later renovated, and expanded in the mid-1300s to become today’s grand St. Vitus Cathedral, a process that took nearly 600 years to finish, due to regime changes and intermittent wars. It wasn’t until 1929 that it was pronounced finally complete. The Cathedral’s interior is definitely stunning with a more than 400’ long nave towering 100’ high. A chapel dedicated to Wenceslas I is considered the historic heart and central point of the Cathedral. It holds his ornate tomb, in front of which coronations used to be conducted. Also interred in the cathedral’s underground Royal Crypt are relics of kings: Charles IV, Wenceslas IV and Rudolf II, and in a room off his chapel, under the protective spirit of Wenceslas, are the crown jewels.
Secret Symbols
and Hidden Society
A great place for a wander in Prague is a bit less obvious – a main street! Nerudova, one of the oldest in town, was built in 1267. Here your focus will not be on storefronts or architecture, but rather the artworks above entryways.
During reconstruction in 2002 of one of Prague’s oldest buildings, the entrance to a hidden underground laboratory, run by Emperor Rudolf II’s personal physician, was discovered behind a bricked up wall. The Alchemist's workshop is now open to the public.
All around the museum's entry room are tools and ingredients an alchemist used in concocting potions.
Alchemy is now credited with laying the groundwork for modern science, notably chemistry. Through their experiments, medieval alchemists invented and developed laboratory devices and procedures that are, in some form, still used today. They also discovered substances such as phosphorus, and documented various chemical properties and reactions, like identifying minerals by how they changed a flame’s color.
During reconstruction in 2002 of one of Prague’s oldest buildings, the entrance to a hidden underground laboratory, run by Emperor Rudolf II’s personal physician, was discovered behind a bricked up wall. The Alchemist's workshop is now open to the public.
Click to open a slideshow of the Alchemist's hidden lair.
Before the reign of Habsburg Empress Maria Theresa late in the 18th century, house numbers didn’t exist. Trying to imitate aristocratic coats of arms, townspeople developed their own emblems adding paintings and sculptures to the doorways. The descriptive symbols or designs identified homeowners and usually their occupations – and sometimes a coded message to select insiders of a secret society.
When the Empress mandated house numbers be used for uniformity, they were simply added alongside the so-called House Signs or Shields, and many still grace the upscale street today. Gold incorporated in house signs over their doorways was especially significant, a nod to the secretive society of alchemists.
Many of the symbols have more than one interpretation, and date back to a time when alchemy was widely practiced. In late medieval and early modern times, science and mysticism were closely linked; the goal of alchemists was to discover the way the world operated, how to purify the body and prolong life. One of the most controversial goals of practitioners was to discover the so-called Philosopher’s Stone, an unknown substance they believed had the ability to transform base metals into precious gold and silver, and from which an elixir of life could be derived. While the efforts were viewed with suspicion and considered a form of magic, Rudolf II was a devotee, and the emperor was so obsessed he elevated alchemy to a respected science, had several large laboratories built at the castle and around town, and invited noted alchemists to work there. Ironically, the advances in pure science eventually undermined alchemy, and it lost favor as leaning too much to the mystical. Its conflict with strict Christians, who condemned it as a sort of sorcery, punishable by death, drove it further into the shadows.
Leading down from the castle complex is one of the oldest streets in town, built in 1267, and the best collection of House Signs or Shields.
A family of violin makers once lived in this house.
A goldsmith lived there.
A white swan depicts purity and the effort to turn dark material into its pure white form.
Gold was equated with the sun’s brightness.
Click to open a slideshow of the House Signs and their meanings.
Statement of Grandeur and Courage
In the town’s old center, it’s hard to miss the Municipal House, built in the early 1900s, with major renovations conducted from 1994-1997 to reverse its degradation during Communist rule. Set on the site of a former royal palace, its architecture is considered to be one of Europe’s finest, both inside and out, especially as a prime example of art nouveau style.
Prague City Hall officials wanted to construct a grand cultural center and concert hall befitting the Kingdom’s capital city status. Symbols are incorporated everywhere, including linden leaves (city tree) and even in the use of color – black for their dark past of occupations and yellow for an optimistic future. The overall message is: these are a working class people poised to do whatever to survive, succeed and be free. The entire building is a shining statement of independence, both of all Czechs, but especially Prague residents. It was here that Czechs first declared their independence from Habsburg rule in 1918.
A huge piece of construction, the triangular Municipal House covers roughly one acre. Over years, many renowned artists, sculptors and designers were recruited to create the iconic structure. The large fresco above the main entrance portrays Lady Prague sitting on a throne with the Czech capital in the background.
A pair of flamboyant lifts flank the entrance; one for the King, the other for the Mayor. Only VIP visitors can take the ride.
Dining options cover multiple bases: a traditional café, a French restaurant graced with Bohemian crystal chandeliers, a Czech beer restaurant and an American bar. These are considered some of the most beautiful Art Nouveau restaurants in Europe.
A huge piece of construction, the triangular Municipal House covers roughly one acre. Over years, many renowned artists, sculptors and designers were recruited to create the iconic structure. The large fresco above the main entrance portrays Lady Prague sitting on a throne with the Czech capital in the background.
Click above to open a slideshow of the cultural center.
Communing with Nature - In and Out of the City
Petrin Hill
Land of Narnia
One of its largest urban green areas, Petrin Hill is an oasis of calm in the center of Prague.
A very modern funicular takes just six minutes to reach the summit, and unmissable views.
Overlooks with convenient bench seating let you take in a panoramic vista of the city's historic landmarks and the Vltava River.
One of its largest urban green areas, Petrin Hill is an oasis of calm in the center of Prague.
The combined parkland, spanning 173,000 acres, is described as: “A mystical landscape of pine forests and deep valleys, with majestic rock towers, gates, walls, ravines, rock cities and labyrinths rising up from them.”
Rocks rise up to 300 feet in Wild Gorge, an ancient sandstone labyrinth deep in a forested area.
And another favorite of rock climbers who enjoy a fantastic view.
The combined parkland, spanning 173,000 acres, is described as: “A mystical landscape of pine forests and deep valleys, with majestic rock towers, gates, walls, ravines, rock cities and labyrinths rising up from them.”
Click above to open a video gliding along the Vtava; Click the pictures on either side to visit the parks.
The Vltava river bisects the city; it also shows the capital’s two personalities – the busy old town and city area, and the leisurely green space of Petrin Hill rising on its west side. You can enjoy the river on a relaxing cruise, or you can venture away and be whisked up to the top of Petrin Hill for a bird’s eye view above and a respite from tourist crowds. Wide, even trails make for an easy walk back down to the city.
With a little extra time, a visit out of the city is well worth it! Travel two hours to the northern border with Germany for a natural extravaganza spanning both countries. Two national parks combine to form Bohemian Saxon Switzerland. Ironically no part of either park is in Switzerland, but the region’s name was coined by two Swiss artists who said the dramatic landscape reminded them of their homeland.
Prague's Got a Quirky Side!
Scattered around town are eyebrow-raising public artworks; the purpose for most of which are left to the viewer's interpretation. To hear speculations about some theories, visit the Prague Destination Travelogue! (See Programs page for dates, times and locations.)
Click on the slideshow to the right to view statues.
To enjoy the Prague experience at its fullest, attend a Savvy Sightseer Prague: a Photographer's Dream Destination travelogue at a library or community center near you! Check the Programs page for upcoming dates and locations.
