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Nestled in among Italy's northern lake region is the cosmopolitan Swiss Lake Lugano. The largest city in the Swiss holiday region Ticino, Lugano is a lively mix of modern financial center, chic shopping along pedestrian walkways and old world charm. There's a distinctive Mediterranean accent to this town, which houses a truly remarkable Renaissance fresco.

At the shoreline, there are plenty of benches and outdoor eateries on which to relax and soak up the beauty of lake and mountains. Venturing off the main roadway, Riva Vincenzo Vela, and enter the labyrinth of side streets filled with open fruit markets, designer shops, take-away pizza and sandwich shops. A very different experience can be found downstairs in the Manor department store. As the escalator descends from the ground level a food extravaganza opens starting mouths to water on sight!

 

Money changes hands often in this village, the third most important financial center in Switzerland. For some, money is invested in banks or purchases; for others, it's into Lady Luck's hands at the local casino.
 

A short walk along the shoreline onto Via Nassa is a walk through centuries and into one of the most incredible works of art. On the outside, the 14th century Church of St. Mary of the Angels, is a nondescript, easily missed structure. Inside, though, are priceless Renaissance frescos by Bernadino Luini. Adorning the altar area is a painstakingly detailed presentation of the Passion and Crucifixion of Christ.

 

Lining the left wall of the church is Luini's depiction and markedly different take on the famous scene from fellow artist Leonardo Da Vinci's well known Last Supper originally completed in 1498 that is on display in Milan. Painted in 1529, long before Dan Brown's controversial book, the DaVinci Code, Luini's work has some notable differences from the more famous artwork. His is separated into three sections. The center focuses on the Christ figure after telling the Apostles that one will betray him. Similar to DaVinci's version, he is calm against the animation of others at the table. A major difference is the figure to His right, purportedly John, who is leaning against Him. In DaVinci's restored photo shown here, that figure leans away. Also of interest is Judas's placement; the figure is to Christ's right, in a red top and clutching a bag of coins, his payoff for betrayal, in DaVinci's painting, but Luini put him to the Christ figure's far left. He still clutches a bag of coins.

An element common to both frescos is the knife held by Peter, the figure second from Christ's right hand. Also symbolic and similar in both is the emphasis on how hands are posed, especially those of the Christ figure in relation to where Judas is seated. Fascinating to view, even by a non-art lover! 

 

See the Milan page for more about DaVinci's masterpiece, which unlike Luini's, requires a reservation and entry fee. For more about each of the pictures on this page, drag your mouse over the photo, or click each set to view as a slideshow.

Continue your trip through Italy with a visit to the Milan, Verona, Lake Garda, Lake Como or Lake Maggiore pages,

or go back to the Italy home page.

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