Savvy Sightseer - tips and insights for seasoned travelers!
Great Tew
Not far from Oxford, London or Bath the Cotswolds are an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
National Trail of walkways make it easy for hikers to visit the different towns and villages by foot.
The Cotswolds
Charming and Charismatic Cotswolds
Anyone who watches British TV shows will warn you – the Cotswolds in south-central England are murderous! A slew of popular crime dramas, like Father Brown and Midsomer Murders, would have you believe treachery lies everywhere just under the surface of acres of lazy, bucolic hills and valleys. Fans of Harry Potter, Poldark and James Bond can find familiar backdrops for their favorite scenes in the Cotswolds, and may even spot some stars of the big screen living behind the honey-colored Cotswold stone walls. So what’s the big draw?
The sheer beauty of the region is a starting point. Writers run out of ways to say quaint, cute and cozy. But there is so much more to the Cotswolds! While many of the villages have somewhat the same look – meandering paths and rivers, limestone houses topped with thatch or local stone, sheep grazing in fields, massive manor houses and large elaborate churches – they each have distinctly different personalities. Some have their quirks; others have buried secrets!
The Cotswold Way
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One popular way to enjoy each village and the countryside between them is to lace up hiking boots and hit the trail. That would be the Cotswold Way National Trail, a roughly 100-mile pathway laid out between Chipping Camden and Bath. In 1966 part of the Cotswolds was named an “Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty” (AONB) as part of a post-WWII movement to protect the countryside and maintain the character and integrity of the area. A long-distance footpath through the region was approved in 1998. In 2007 the Trail was formally opened, and today draws thousands. Along the way walkers are rewarded with stunning views and villages that have escaped the vagaries of modernization.
At one time England was praised as having the best wool in Europe, and the best of the best was found in the Cotswolds. By the 15th century, half of England’s economy was generated from the wool industry, and prosperous wool merchants put back some of the money they earned into their local communities, often by building manors for themselves, housing for their workers, and endowing their parish churches. The "wool churches" of the Cotswolds are among the most elaborate and architecturally attractive houses of worship.
But then the demand for wool dropped with the upsurge in cheaper cotton and industrialization, grinding the economy to a halt, and the region became locked in time. Today, what had been their loss is now everyone’s gain. The Cotswolds are a lifetime away - right in the center of England.
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There are endless places of beauty and venues to visit within the 790-square-mile region called the Cotswolds. Here is a look at just a few. Enjoy this sampling for now, then check on the Travelogues page to see where a Savvy Sightseer program is being offered near you, where you can go and "visit" these, and several more, in greater depth! You will hear some fascinating facts and stories, learn the meaning behind the unusual names and, of course, see fabulous photos!
Click on the pictures below for slide shows of some key sights in each village - to whet your appetite for more.
Moreton-in-Marsh
Moreton-in-Marsh has been an important crossroads for more than 1,000 years. It is one of the most connected of the Cotswolds villages, and makes for a great central point for visiting others by train or bus. Moreton-in-Marsh was issued its market charter in the 13th century, and is still a principal market town today.
Click the slide show to the right to stroll around Moreton-in-Marsh.
Broadway's Main Street is one of the longest in England.
Honey-colored limestone dry walls mark boundaries. The fencing is created by careful stacking; no mortar is used at all. The pointed stones on top deter sheep from trying to jump over the wall.
A herd of 25-30 Red Deer enjoy free roaming on the grounds of Broadway Tower.
Broadway's Main Street is one of the longest in England.
The 16th-century Curfew Tower on left is the oldest building on the town’s Main or High Street. Its bell was rung nightly until 1860. Opposite the tower is Redesdale Hall, built in Queen Victoria's Jubilee Year, 1887.
Redesdale Hall’s arches were once open and sheltered marketers, while upstairs served as a community hall. Antiques and craft fairs are still held there regularly today, and the hall can be rented out for community events.
Moreton-in-Marsh has been a traveler’s town for at least 1700 years and was used as a coaching station before the railway arrived in 1853. It is one of the few Cotswold towns with a station, and has regular service to London, about 1.5 hours away.
The 16th-century Curfew Tower on left is the oldest building on the town’s Main or High Street. Its bell was rung nightly until 1860. Opposite the tower is Redesdale Hall, built in Queen Victoria's Jubilee Year, 1887.
Broadway
Self-proclaimed to be the “Jewel of the Cotswolds,” Broadway is one of the larger towns and has one of the longest High or Main Streets in England. The "broad way" is the wide grass-fringed main street lined with honey-colored Cotswold limestone buildings, many dating from the 16th century.
The town was a favorite of the Arts & Crafts Colony that became known as the Broadway Group in the 1880s.
Click the photo above and take a walk along Broadway's High Street.
Bourton-on-the-Water
Stradling the River Windrush, Bourton-on-the-Water is a popular town with roots back to the Stone Age. It was also active during the time of Roman occupation, which gave rise to its name, roughly meaning settlement by the camp. Perhaps the most unusual feature of Bourton-on-the-Water is that it contains a village within a village. The 1:9 ratio miniature town was created by a previous landlord of the Old New Inn, behind which the Model Village was constructed. It was officially opened in 1937 after local craftsmen worked meticulously for five years developing it.
Click the photo to the right for a walk by the water, or below to enter the Model Village expanded photos.
With a series of local limestone bridges spanning its quiet river Windrush, Bourton-on-the-Water is likened to the Venice of the Cotswolds.
The 35-mile-long river bisecting Bourton-on-the-Water starts in the Cotswolds and joins the Thames near Oxford.
Prominent on the Village Green is a memorial to the 39 locals who died in two World Wars.
With a series of local limestone bridges spanning its quiet river Windrush, Bourton-on-the-Water is likened to the Venice of the Cotswolds.
A 1:9 scale version of the war memorial is part of an entire recreation of Bourton-on-the-Water at the Model Village.
Stow-on-the-Wold
The Porch House in Stow-on-the-Wold has the singular distinction of being recognized as the Oldest Inn in England, with parts of the building dating back to the year 947 AD.
Wealth brought in during the 15th century from the sheep business led to magnificent churches like St. Edward’s here. The prosperous wool merchants showed gratitude for their success by endowing their parish churches.
One thing traders had to be honest about was the head count, and one way to ensure that as 20,000 sheep trotted their way into town was to guide them to the square via narrow alleyways – so narrow they had to march single file – the easier to count them!
The Porch House in Stow-on-the-Wold has the singular distinction of being recognized as the Oldest Inn in England, with parts of the building dating back to the year 947 AD.
The name Stow-on-the-Wold means “meeting place on the uplands.” At the height of the Cotswold wool industry it was a prime meeting place for sheep marketing. As many as 20,000 sheep were sold here at one time. The high quality of wool fleeces from the region drew buyers from as far away as Italy.
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Stow-on-the-Wold was the sight of the last battle of the First English Civil War in March of 1646. Over 1500 Royalist soldiers were imprisoned in the mighty St. Edward's Church. The defeat paved the way for today's parliamentary rule of England as well as the eventual execution of King Charles I, whose authoritarian rule and quarrels with Parliament had sparked the civil war.
Click the photo above for a slide show of Stow-on-the-Wold.
On the Fringes of the Cotswolds: Bath and Oxford
Bath
A perennial hit – since Roman times – is the lovely village of Bath. UNESCO has included Bath as a World Heritage Site for its architectural wonders, Roman remains and history that spans back to 863 BC, when the healing power of its natural springs was first realized. Romans took over the region in the 1st century AD and harnessed the natural resource. Along with an extensive bath complex and reservoir, Bath became a center of Roman leisure and social life. With the withdrawal of the Romans, and subsequent changes of fortune, Bath became more known as a place for sick people looking for a cure than as a hotspot of chic. That changed in the 18th century when British aristocracy started taking summer sojourns there and the town moved from a grubby, market town to a respectable, posh city. The springs were eventually rediscovered and stately homes erected. The most famous of these is known as The Royal Crescent, the first crescent-shaped complex of townhouses built in Europe, and still considered one of the finest examples of Georgian architecture. Built in the late 1700s, the impressive grouping of 30 homes quickly became the center of elite social life. Today, many of the homes have combined to become a five-star hotel, but it is at #1 Royal Crescent that 18th century life continues on. Retrofitted to remove later renovations, the house has been restored to its original design and serves as a wonderful glimpse into the life of its earliest residents, complete with tools of everyday life on tables and desks as though the owners just stepped out for a moment.
The Royal Crescent, the first crescent-shaped complex of townhouses built in Europe, is still considered one of the finest examples of Georgian architecture.
Today, many of the homes have combined to become a five-star hotel.
A private lawn stretched out with the arc of the houses, providing a stunning view.
The Royal Crescent, the first crescent-shaped complex of townhouses built in Europe, is still considered one of the finest examples of Georgian architecture.
No quaint British town would be complete without an equally old cathedral. Bath is no different. Using remnants of derelict Roman baths, a monastery was built in the 8th century, evolving to an to a cathedral and later an abbey. It is at Bath that England’s first king, Egbert (aka Edgar) of Wessex, was crowned in 963 AD. The typically Gothic exterior of Bath’s church belies its several striking internal architectural features, chief of which is its spectacular stone fan vaulted ceiling added in the 1800s. Intricate carvings grace wooden pews and choir stalls.
A late-2017 renovation project to repair a collapsing floor and incorporate a heating system to draw on the town’s thermal spring required removal of the seating. While some wood pews were returned, many were not, which caused quite a stir among Victorian preservationists.
Click the photo above for a slide show of 18th-century living, or the photos below for a better view of the beautiful abbey.
First a monastery occupied this space in 757 AD, then a cathedral in 1090, and finally today's abbey took shape in the 17th century.
The ceiling is a magnificent example of a vaulted fan style.
Oxford
The town, originally a trade crossroads where oxen could ford, or easily cross, the river is about 55 miles NW of London.
Oxford alumni authors CS Lewis and JRR Tolkien found that they greatly enjoyed one another’s company, and so they’d meet for beer and conversation at this Oxford pub. Eventually, the group grew to 19 authors. Calling themselves "the Inklings," they would listen, encourage, critique, correct, interrupt and argue and advise each other. Reportedly Tolkien brought along each new chapter of The Lord of the Rings as they were written.
The estate encompasses 2,100 acres designed by Capability Brown. Grounds include semi-submerged Grand Bridge, formal gardens, mermaid fountain, herb and lavender garden, and Pleasure Gardens, complete with a mini train, hedge maze, butterfly house and giant chess set. The water terraces and Italian Garden are considered the 9th Duke’s legacy to the palace.
The town, originally a trade crossroads where oxen could ford, or easily cross, the river is about 55 miles NW of London.
Click the photo above for a slide show of Oxford.
First-time visitors to the university town of Oxford might expect to see one large campus. The reality is a mishmash of buildings, old and new, scattered amid very busy city streets. Oxford has 38 colleges spread throughout the town. Each have their own distinctive identity and focus.
As diverse as its setup, the students of Oxford are also a mixed bag. They come from more than 150 countries and territories. And the University has some pretty impressive alumni: more than 50 Nobel Laureates, 26 British Prime Ministers, 28 foreign presidents, and even 11 saints! Tech whizzes include Cameron and Tyler Winklevoss (Facebook founders) And Reid Hoffman (LinkedIn founder). Noted writers also came from Oxford: Oscar Wilde, TS Eliot, CS Lewis (Chronicles of Narnia) and JRR Tolkien (Hobbits).
A major draw to the region is just about eight miles out of town, on the eastern edge of the Cotswolds — the grand Blenheim Palace. It is the largest home in England, still family-owned and lived in. The World Heritage Site; designed in early 1700s; was given by Queen Anne and the nation to General John Churchill, first Duke of Marlborough for a military victory in the Battle of Blenheim and others against the French in 1704. It is best known as the birthplace of Winston Churchill; his parents were visiting relatives there in 1874 when his mother, American Jennie Jerome, went into labor.
Continue your trip through Great Britain with a visit to Scotland, The Outlander Effect, Wales, England Home Page, North England, South England or back to the Great Britain home page. Go to the Recipes page for English Carrot & Coriander Soup.
